How to Eat Like an Austinite: Become a Regular
Originally published in Austin Monthly March 2019; All photos by Hayden Spears
In a city changing as rapidly as Austin — Look, another new restaurant! — there’s power in sticking to a place that you love. We talked to 6 regulars about why they keep going back to their favorite spots.
Ramen Tatsu-ya — Taylor Welden
Better known as: Outdoor adventure travel gear designer; vice-president of the Austin Facial Hair Club; board member of Beard Team USA; current U.S. National Beard Champion.
Regular since: Before Ramen Tatsu-ya officially opened in 2012. I’d been seeking out “real” ramen everywhere, and when I heard they were opening, I sent an email politely asking to be invited to their soft opening. They said yes!
Frequency: At my peak, nearly five times a week. It’s less now that I travel a lot—about once a week.
Favorite meal: Ninety percent of the time, I start with the Sweet and Sour Yodas (Brussels sprouts), then order the No. 2, Tonkotsu Sho-Yu. To that I add beni shoga (pickled ginger), parmesan, corn, and maybe a spicy Fire in a Bowl bomb. And, of course, an extra ajitama (marinated soft-boiled egg), or two. Epic poems of might and passion should be written about Ramen Tatsu-ya’s ajitama.
The draw: My very first slurp of their delicious velvety tonkotsu broth is what brings me back again and again. But through the years and all my repeat visits, the real draw is the staff and the owners. We chat and share jokes, high-fives, hugs, and laughs. Everyone there is so welcoming and legitimately cool.
Uchi — Janna & Steve Paulson
Better known as: Janna is the founder and president of PPDS Design Studio and on the advisory council to the Paramount Theatre, KLRU, and Texas Book Festival. Steve is the founder of ACI Environmental Consulting.
Regular since: Since 2003, when Uchi opened.
Frequency: Every other week. Some people go to Uchi to celebrate occasions. We most appreciate it after a long, difficult day. We feel the love as soon as we walk in the door.
Favorite meal: Standout items include the 72-hour short rib, Uchi salad, Brussels sprouts, ocean trout, and snow crab.
The draw: While major companies now litter the city with their “promise of the future,” it has always been the small business person with the think-out-of-the-box mentality that has been the heart of this community. Tyson [Cole, the owner] was one of the first young chefs to start a quality restaurant that has some surprise in store for you every time you come in. But the real reason we frequent Uchi is the people. The staff has always made us feel at home.
Kerbey Lane Cafe — Jerry Lee
Better known as: Lifelong learner. Jerry has earned three associate degrees—computer science, renewable energy, and electric power technology—since retiring.
Regular since: 1987
Frequency: Once or twice a day
Favorite meal: Almost every morning I have the American Classic: eggs over medium with a ham steak, sliced tomatoes, and fruit. My other mainstays include breakfast tacos with rice, ham, and eggs and the house salad with a grilled chicken breast.
The draw: I’ve always been a counter person. The atmosphere is friendly and open, and I have the best conversations there. Some of the most interesting people I’ve run into are the servers at Kerbey Lane. I love the high-quality, well-prepared food, and if I wake hungry in the middle of the night, I can always get something to eat.
Fonda San Miguel — Jamie and Christian Bowers
Better known as: Owners, Bola Pizza. Christian has lived in Austin, off and on, for more than 20 years. Jamie is a native Austinite.
Regulars since: 2002
Frequency: Three to four times a month
Favorite meal: Calabacitas Rellenas and Tacos al Pastor
The draw: We love the interior Mexican food, but to be honest, it’s the staff. They’re very professional and welcoming, especially the bartenders. We love them. Oh, and saying hello to Paco, the parrot, on the way to the bar.
Cisco’s — Gardner Selby
Better known as: Reporter, state government and politics beat; PolitiFact Texas contributor for KUT’s Texas Standard.
Regular since: Shhh! My whitening hair was red the first time I had a migas taco.
Frequency: Definitely at 8 a.m. on Thursdays, when the informal PolitiMigas group gathers at a back table. You might catch a memory from Julian Read, who was Gov. Connally’s press secretary, or be surprised by a curious journalist visiting from abroad. No RSVP required, ever.
Favorite meal: Migas taco, sausage biscuits, and the unique picadillo rolls. But most of all, the ranchero sauce.
The draw: It’s a stable, historic, inexpensive, basic Tex-Mex restaurant that doesn’t have to try to be more than that. The photos alone tell part of the story of modern Texas and Austin. This home away from home draws customers of all kinds, from candidates or officeholders to UT students, hipsters, and police officers on patrol.
Franklin BBQ — Ivan Vires
Better known as: Networker of people, husband and father, self-renowned handy man, and proud Texan.
Regular since: Dec. 17, 2010. They were operating out of a food trailer on Concordia Avenue and I-35. The line was only 50 people long at 11 a.m.!
Frequency: About monthly. I’ve eaten at Franklin BBQ 73 times since 2010, and I have a goal to be at 100 by December 2020.
Favorite meal: Fatty brisket, pork ribs, and coleslaw. On Saturdays, the beef rib. The brisket is the best I have ever had, and I’ve had a lot. It’s exactly what you would expect from a James Beard Award winner.
The draw: So many things: The staff that couldn’t be nicer or more welcoming; Aaron [Franklin], who stays so grounded and down-to-earth; and the line, where I meet people from all over the world. I always say there are two types of people in this world: Those who will wait in line for Franklin BBQ and those who haven’t eaten there. I love to see the look on people’s faces as that first taste of brisket melts like cotton candy. Regardless of affiliation, sex, social status, career, or any other label we put on each other, that line transcends it all.